Son Doong Exit

18th January.

This was a quick one day trip with Vietnamese TV and a 3D laser scanning crew, to finish off a TV programme and a 3D scan of the cave.

From the road it was an easy twenty minute walk down hill to a stream bed, then it was a steep uphill walk for forty minutes to a col then about fifteen minutes down the other side to the entrance to the cave, again, this was a very impressive spot with a strong breeze blowing into the cave. Just as we arrived it started raining so without any hesitation we climbed down the entrance slope and proceeded to the Great Wall of Vietnam, the dividing point of the cave, you can go no further without SRT kit.

Son Doong Exit

Once at the wall, the scanner people set up their equipment and started a series of scans to cover the entire section of cave back to the entrance, the film crew also started filming, with interviews of the scanner men, general shots of the cave and interviews with Deb (Limbert) as well as a section where Deb had to sketch the cave for Ruth and I, then we had to ask her some questions, this was repeated several times, filming from different angles (one camera!), so who knows, we could be TV stars!

Cave Pearls in Son Doong

The whole process was incredibly slow and by the time we got back to the entrance (Son Doong Exit) we were all freezing, so even though it was raining heavily it was good to get out of the cave for the march back to the road.

The end of the trip.

Bahn Khoai

After the show cave visit we went for a little 'snacklet' in one of the market cafes, whose speciality seems to be Banh Khoai, pronounced 'Baang Kwai'.

Adding the batter

This consists of some green salad leaves, sliced cucumber and shredded cabbage and carrots on one plate, another plate has rice 'paper', incredibly thin, tough and flexible and a third plate has crispy battered beansprout 'pancakes' cut into sections.

Adding the beansprouts

To eat, you take a sheet of the rice paper and add a portion of the ingredients and then roll it all up and dip it into a thin peanut sauce. Chilli sauce is an optional extra.

Cooked and ready

As much as a normal person can eat, together with a can of drink costs about 30,000 Dong which equates to about 90p.

The finished article

Phong Nha Cave

Saturday 17th January, our final rest day before the Son Doong Exit Trip.

We decided to visit the Phong Nha Showcave. This trip starts from the tourism centre in Phong Nha, for six of us the inclusive cost was 1,220,000 Dong. From the ticket office you make your way down to the river, getting your ticket stamped  en-route, once at the river you board your assigned boat (these are all painted in yellow and blue) and cruise slowly up stream with beautiful views of the villages and surrounding hills.

The Son River

After about twenty minutes there is a river junction where you take the left fork to Phong Nha Cave. Just before the cave entrance the "driver" stops to show your ticket to another official to collect another stamp, once they are back in the boat you continue sailing into the cave. A final thrust of the engine just as you enter, gives the boat enough momentum to reach a low section where it's hands on the roof to steer followed by 'rowing' along a large river passage, it's well lit and the size is certainly impressive. After about ten minutes the boat is turned around and you head out, stopping before the exit to leave the boat (make a note of the boat number) to walk along a section of fossil passage which is large and extremely well decorated.

Formations in Phong Nha, note the person below and right of the stalls.

As you leave the cave (there is another cave up steps on the left, but we didn't pay for that) there are quite a few stalls selling souveniers and drinks, all desperate for trade, having run the gauntlet it's back to the boat for the return journey.
There are many boats on the river, not just the tour boats, but locals either fishing or collecting food for the small fish farms dotted along the river.

Boat on the River Son

Hang En Tour

13th and 14th January.

We joined an Oxalis (the company we are working for) run, two day tour to Hang En, along with eight clients, our guide, Kien, and six (I think) porters. After a briefing and equipment issue at Oxalis we were driven into the National Park and our drop off point for the start of the walk-in.
The first part is easy downhill to the Doong Village where we stopped for tea before continuing to a river crossing and our lunch stop.

Picnic Spot

After lunch there was a bit more walking through the forest before hitting a major river and the first of many crossings as we followed the river all the way to the entrance of Hang En. The water levels were still fairly high after the recent rain, just above knee height with a strong current and the porters provided welcome assistance for this first crossing. After about five hours of leisurely walking we arrived at the entrance to Hang En.

Hang En

We entered the cave through the lower of the two entrances, then climbed up over a boulder slope to where there was a good view back up to the higher entrance and down to the campsite, a good photo opportunity that was much appreciated by all. Finally, all pictures had been taken and we descended the slope to the campsite where we could leave our gear, and have a cup of tea before going through the cave.


From the camp site there was a short 'low' section through the stream then it was up a boulder slope and a short section of high level passage to an awesome view out to the exit. Many more pictures taken here before we all descended to look at some mud towers before returning to camp via a low level (with the stream) route. Back at camp the porters had cooked up a fantastic multi-dish evening meal for us all. And so to bed.

Hang En Exit

Most of us woke early and by about 8.30 there were shafts of light shining onto the camp site, apparently we were lucky to see this as the sun is only in the correct position for about two months of the year. Watto, who was here all of last year, has never seen this and was quite annoyed that we saw this on our first trip.

Hang En Campsite

After breakfast, it was a leisurely walk back to the road, stopping for lunch just before the walk back up the big hill to the road and our lift back to Phong Nha.

Three days of rest now (time to get our washing done and hopefully sort out our internet connection) before our next trip which will be a day trip to Son Doong Exit, followed immediately by a three day trip to Tu Lan.

Our House

(In the middle of our street)

A few pictures of our house.

Front of house

The entrance is via an electronic roller shutter door, very posh for the area but totally useless when there is a power cut. Fortunately there is a back door for which we now have a key, although this was not the case when we had the first power cut.

Lounge area

Once inside the house the lower floor has a garage area/bike store, two bedrooms which we are not using, a kitchen and a shower and toilet room. Stairs lead up to the first floor.

Kitchen area

On this floor is another kitchen, bathroom, two more bedrooms and a lounge with balcony. As it is all tiles and empty it is very echoey. It is also very cold at the moment but I'm sure that will change.

Arrival and first few days

Having left the UK on the 7th January, we arrived at Dong Hoi (via Doha and Ho Chi Minh City) on the 8th where we were met for the final forty minute drive to Phong Nha and our new home.

The following day we were back at Dong Hoi for our "medicals". The hospital was an experience, but fortunately they are in the process of building a new one. We had our height and weight checked, "how much do you weigh?, how tall are you?", blood taken and urine sample collected (no doors and I hope it was just water on the floor), then we had our eyes, ears and teeth checked; 2 eyes - pass, 2 ears - pass, more than 10 teeth - pass (well, that's how it seemed but I'm sure there was more to it than that) finally our mental health and blood pressure checked, the results are out in a few days and hopefully we will both pass.

The next three days (10th - 12th) were spent in familiarising ourselves with the local area with a tour of some of the Phong Nha Ke Bang National Park, the highlight of which (for me) was a visit to the Paradise Cave Showcave.

7m high formation in Paradise cave.

Tomorrow we join an Oxalis two day tour to Hang En which covers the first part of the Hang Son Doong Tour.

Packing

One day to go and we have entered manic packing mode. My 90 litre bag is full and weighs 23kg, Ruth's 90 litre bag (which is smaller!) is also full and weighs 16kg. Unfortunately there are still a few items to pack.

Not a lot left to pack but no room available and wash kit etc. needs to go in. Think we'll have to sleep on it and hope there is some settling of the contents overnight.