Climbing Fansipan in a day

View from the car window on the way up to the start

Short on time, and having read some reviews about the camps, we decided to climb Fan Si Pan in a day. Information about this was hard to find so we ended up carrying far more clothing than was required (more on that later).

Sunrise from the early part of the trail

As far as we could find out (and we believe this to be true as we work in another national park in Vietnam and it certainly is the case there) you can't climb the mountain without a local guide. This differs to Europe, but then this is Vietnam, so it's best to respect the laws of the country and support the local economy.

Through woods and streams

Our ascent was towards the end of June (2016) in what has been a cold and rainy year for Vietnam.

Beautiful morning

What clothes to pack was our first dilemma, this is a high mountain by many standards and we really couldn't get any sensible information (the receptionist at the hotel even suggested gloves and warm hat!), this is a hot place but it does rain, heavily particularly at this time of year.

Camp one, camp two does not look as nice

As we were worried about getting cold and only had cheap Vietnamese poncho style raincoats we packed about three extra layers of clothing. A total waste of time it's simply too hot most of the year. My advice would be to ask your guide (the day before you go) about the average temperatures at the summit for the month of your visit, for June it's between ten and fifteen degrees Centigrade but unfortunately we only found this out during our walk.

An early view of the summit

As Europeans we are used to colder temperatures so I would only take a maximum of one extra (thin?) layer plus a lightweight waterproof jacket. Even the waterproof may be a waste of time as the rain is so heavy that you will probably get wet any way, and, if you do put the jacket on, you will probably get to hot and sweaty.

The path now follows the power lines

How much food and drink to take was our next dilemma, reports tend to say the walk takes about ten to twelve hours (and this is probably a good average). We knew we were being provided with lunch but expected no more so we thought we should take something extra as were starting at five a.m. so would miss breakfast.

Still good views but is that cloud I see approaching?

As it turned out, as we left the hotel they handed us a large bag each with bread, jam, two bananas, an apple and (randomly) a tomato plus half a litre of water.  When added to our snacks, the lunch and the half litre of water provided by our guide and the litre of water we packed we thought we would have too much, but again it was too late to do anything about this.

Is this the summit?

As it turned out, we had way too much food but just the right amount of water. So my advice is carry about two to three litres of water each and only take limited snacks or none at all if your hotel provides a packed breakfast.

The trail gets steeper

One important thing is sunscreen, after the first three hours we were in the clouds or under a cloudy sky for most of the day, but despite applying sunscreen before we set off, we both caught the sun a bit. So take some with you and apply regularly.

Into the clouds

So, enough general information for now, back to describing our day. We got up at 4:30 am and were ready to leave by five, except there was no one about 😢. At about quarter past two people turned up on motorbikes (no helmets) and we were given a lift to the guiding company headquarters where we transferred to a car for a lift up to a high pass where we started the walk. At this time the weather was glorious, we should have been at the top! We started off through woodlands and beside a stream, nearly always climbing, after about an hour and a half we reached the first camp, tin sheds, surely people would only stop here if they were walking up from Sa Pa? Continuing up, the weather was still fine and we were rewarded with some fine views.

View from the summit

After a while the route follows a ridge up towards an obvious false summit, this is also the route taken by the power lines used to supply the buildings at the top. Partway up this ridge we were engulfed by clouds and after just over three hours of walking we reached camp two, not a pleasant site, tin sheds like camp one, litter scattered all around. The rooms here looked dark, damp and nasty, used sleeping bags were left lying on the 'beds', giving the impression that they would not be cleaned before being used again. (There was no one around so it's not possible to say whether they were used again or not.)

View from the summit

Our guide wanted to stay here for twenty minutes but we insisted on pushing on after five, twenty minutes later we started descending (this is before the actual false summit), losing about 100m of height before the final climb up. From here on things deteriorated (in our opinion), general building waste was strewn about the hillside and where the path had been diverted, the new path was so poorly constructed, particularly through a boggy section, that I can't see it lasting.

View of the summit! Oh deary deary me!

Eventually we reached the stone stairway that has been constructed to allow the cable car users to get to the summit and reached the top after four hours twenty minutes. What can I say about the top? Well, look at the pictures and make your own mind up, but to me it was horrible and certainly distracted from what had been a pleasant walk for most of the way. I'm sure the thousands of people who enjoy the cable car each day might disagree. The walk back down follows the same route and took us another four and a half hours, but we weren't rushing as we had plenty of time and had lunch about an hour below camp two.

Hairy caterpillar

In conclusion, it is possible to climb Fansipan in a day, but why would you want to? If you do you are going to hit the crowds plus the best weather is often early in the morning so when you reach the top there will be no view, just masses of people (I've read that the cable car can transport up to 2000 people an hour to the summit!) Better to take two days over the climb (as long as you can face a night at camp two), stay at camp two and get up early so as to reach the summit before the cable car clients arrive, and while there is a good chance of clear views.

Congratulations, Vietnamese style!

Trek to Lao Chai and Ta Van

Terraces

Day two in Sa Pa, today we have a full day trek, organised through our hotel (Sapa Elegance), to Lao Chai and Ta Van.

Terraces

After a leisurely breakfast at the hotel, we met our guide and the rest of the clients who were joining us on the trek, there were seven of us in total.

Umbrellas, perfect come rain or shine

As we left Sa Pa we soon picked up four 'shadows' who were to follow us all the way to Lao Chai, mind you, some of the others on this tour found they needed help to descend some of the slippery slopes.

Shadows, waiting patiently for an opportunity to sell

We didn't have the trail to ourselves (unlike yesterday) but the various groups were far enough apart for it not to matter, in a way, the trail reminded me of trekking in parts of Nepal with high mountains and rice fields.

More terraces, different shapes

We arrived at Lao Chai at around one pm and stopped for lunch (paid for as part of the trek costs, drinks not included).

Terrace toilet?

Lao Chai was where our shadows lived, so they changed to hard sell mode as they were going no further. Once we started trekking after lunch we soon picked up another shadow, about four foot six high in her wellies, looked about sixty but turned out to be only forty, must be a hard life!

More terraces, Fansipan in the distance

We continued on easier terrain, mostly along concrete paths to our final destination of Ta Van, finishing around four pm.

Ride-em buffaloboy

The trek was on the whole very pleasant and much cheaper than yesterdays half day tour. If you don't mind trekking with others of unknown ability then this is a good option but if you want to be on your own, then pay a little bit more for an exclusive tour.

Butterfly tree

When we got back to our hotel, we found our room was already occupied, by elephants!

No pets allowed!

Afternoon trek to Ban Ho village

Starting the walk through rice terraces

After this mornings excursion we were looking forward to an afternoon stroll away from the crowds.

Rice fields in action

Our guide met us at the hotel and we were then driven some distance away from Sa Pa to our start point.

It's all about the rice

At the start point were a number of women in local dress and as we left the road, one joined us.

Rice, as far as the eye can see

Initially we were on a wide track, descending past corn fields and a small quarry but as we got lower  we entered the rice fields.

Our guide (nearest) and our shadow

So many terraces, all different shades of green depending on when the rice had been planted.

More rice fields, well, this is what we came to see

Because the hills are so steep the terraces are all narrow, this means no machinery can be used here so all the planting, ploughing and harvesting is done by hand (or buffalo).

Feeding the buffalo

The walk continued downhill past a few small houses, with the path becoming smaller and smaller.

Looking up the valley, Fansipan in the clouds

Finally we were walking on the edges of the rice fields themselves before emerging onto a road in Ban Ho village. We stopped for a beer here while waiting for our transport back to Sa Pa, it also gave our shadow a chance to sell her wares to Ruth, we guessed that's why she was tagging along.

After the walk

Arrival in Sa Pa

Sa Pa town

After flying to Ha Noi, spending the night and then catching the night train, we arrived at Lao Cai station where we were picked up for the transfer to Sa Pa.

What?

The transfer took about forty five minutes to get to Sa Pa and another forty five minutes to an hour to travel through the gridlock that is Sa Pa and drop everyone off at their hotels, we were last.

Tiger country

When we arrived at the hotel, it was still to early to check in so they suggested we walk up a nearby hill and then come back in two hours, seemed like a good plan so we went for it. First though, we booked an afternoon trek at the tourist office.

This looks more like it

Back to the suggested hill, when we got to it we found out we had to pay, not much so we handed over our money and received a 'map', possibly the worlds worst map!

Oh no, bit of a let down

Once inside we began to see the error of our ways, appalling concrete sculptures, including one of Mickey Mouse, and masses of Vietnamese enjoying themselves.

Final kick in the teeth

The only bonus was that once we found the viewpoints, after much trial and error thanks to the 'map', we were rewarded with some fine views.

Finally we're out, they'll not be seeing us again!

Never again.

More temples around Angkor Wat

Banteay Srey carvings

Our final days in Siem Reap and after a day on the bikes yesterday, we were going to spend a bit of the time sitting in a tuk tuk as we planned to visit some of the more remote sites.

Banteay Srey, smaller than many other temples

First on our hit list was Banteay Srey, built during the latter half of the 10th century by a king called Rajendravarman. It is of comparatively miniature proportions and built out of a pink sandstone which still has a lovely colour.

What grass?

The guide book says this is a peaceful, isolated setting, don't be fooled, this is no longer the case as this site is now a major attraction with interpretation centres (very useful) boat rides (not for us) and restaurants. Oh, and coachloads of people arrive around 10 am, fortunately just as we were leaving.

Kbal Spean, Vishnu reclining

Further away from Angkor War is the site of Kbal Spean, one of the tributaries of the Seim Reap river which flows through the main Angkor Wat group.

Underwater carvings

A forty five minute walk up hill gets you to a river bed with sculptures carved into it, including hundreds of lingas. This continues for about 150m and you have to look very closely to spot them all (we missed some).

Some of the hundreds of lingas carved into the river bed

Our final temple of the day was Banteay Samre, a restored temple (built during the reign of Suryavarman in the first half of the 12th century) just outside the main Angkor Wat group which means this truly was a peaceful setting and somewhere to escape the crowds.

Ruth, trying to stop Banteay Samre walls collapsing

For our last day we thought we'd try to catch a sunrise, but away from the crowds at Angkor Wat, great idea, but it was too cloudy for a proper sunrise, however we were away from the crowds, just the two of us and a temple attendant!

Bakheng sunrise

Bakheng was carved out of a hillside during the late 9th to early 10th century under the reign of Yasovarman, it takes about 15 minutes to walk up to the top. As well as there being no sunrise, at the moment (and for the next two years) there is extensive renovation taking place so the views are partially obstructed by scaffolding. That said, they are still good.

Bakheng summit

After Bakheng we visited two minor sites nearby, both small and peaceful with no one about, maybe it was still too early?

Steep steps ascending Baksei Chamkrong

Baksei Chamkrong was a reasonable sized affair in a fairly standard format, the second site was much smaller but there were some intact inscriptions in a doorway.

The writing's on the wall

Baphoun was next, followed by the final temples of the day, and of our visit to Siem Reap, The Khleangs and the Sour Prat Towers.

Sour Prat, now there's a name that doesn't translate well

There are two Khleangs, North and South, built at different times and their purpose is unknown. The North Khleang was built first ( late 10th century) and it is thought the South Khleang was built later (early 11th century) for symmetry!

Gingerbread cottages

The Sour Prat Towers were built later (early 13th century), and in between the Khleangs, there are twelve in total, all identical and also of unknown function.

Baphoun

Baphoun (or Bapoun) was built just as the Normans invaded Britain (middle of the 11th century). A one hundred and seventy two metre long raised causeway leads to an enormous temple mountain.

Plucking birds from a tree

Inside the temple are many carvings like the one above, showing details of everyday life? The carvings are a little niave, but there are many of them and they do have a certain charm.

Spot the monk?

At the West side of the temple mountain, the collapsed walls have been reused (about 16th century) and built into a giant statue of a reclining Buddha, difficult to make out at first, but if you look close enough and squint a bit you can see his head.

Reclining Buddha

So that's our tour of Siem Reap and the temples completed, now we're off to Sa Pa.