First Son Doong Trip

Friday 23rd to Thursday 29th January.


We were joined in the house by John and Geraldine a couple of days ago. They stay for a week then will be heading off home. John will be working for Oxalis from the beginning of May.

On the Thursday afternoon (the day before we leave for the trip) we went to Howard's house (Deb went into Son Doong yesterday to set up the ropes etc) to sort out the equipment that will be required for the next few days. This included tents, lights, helmets, rope, lights for photography, radios, first aid kit and so on.

The following morning we met Ryan and David who were going with us into Son Doong that day. Ryan is a photographer and David is a freelance writer. With us we had a team of five porters, An, Tu, Tu, Nia, and Xian. These spellings may not be correct!

Landing the Drone at Hang En Exit

Once all were assembled we hopped onto the bus for the drive up to the drop off point and then set off down the hill, the pace was fast as we were combining two days into one (and both David and Ryan were fit and had previously been to Hang En). We made Hang En in time for an early lunch, then it was off again to the Exit where we stopped for pictures and for Ryan to fly his "Drone", equipped with a GoPro camera, before marching along a new path to Hang Son Doong entrance where we met Deb. The obligatory cup of Tea/Coffee was consumed before heading down to our first view of the entrance, quite small considering the size of the cave beyond. The draft is so strong that all the foliage moves constantly. The entrance climbs had been equipped with hand lines, with only two steep sections where we lifelined Ryan and David (even though they were probably ok without).

First View of Hang Son Doong

At the first river crossing Ryan took some photos which involved us posing in the water for some time whilst the shot was set up. For a lot of this time Dave was kneeling in the water to make it look more epic than it really was! On the way through to camp one Ryan used us all as models or lighting crew, directing us all with walkie talkies as he took photos in various locations.

Porters with loads at the entrance

After passing some massive stalactites, and approximately 500m before Camp One, we climbed up to a view point which looked out over large formations (including The Hand of Dog), Camp One and the First Doline in the distance, an awe inspiring place. Fifteen minutes after leaving the view point we arrived in Camp One where the porters had put up our tents and were ready with more tea and coffee, a ridiculously large evening meal was not far behind. By eight pm we were all ready for bed.
An early start and off through the complex boulder field to the bottom of the steep rise. A hand line was set up here to aid ascent. At the top of the slope there is a magnificent view of the Green Gours and the continuation of the cave.

Doline One

Once into the area of Green Gours we were very lucky that Dave organised a cloud free day so that sunbeams were able to illuminate the whole area. The sunbeams were of the "beam me up Scottie" variety, the whole display lasting over an hour.

Sunbeams in Doline One

Through the Rat Run and into Doline Two passing gours filled with plants all turned to face the light. The walk through the jungle was hot and sweaty and the view down into camp two was very welcome.

Jungle in Doline Two

Camp Two is at first glance on superb white sand but which turns out to be ancient bat guano. When wetted this turns into a paste like substance. Another fine meal and by eight pm we were ready for bed.

Pancakes for breakfast again before heading to the lake, passing the Dogs Bollocks on route and discovering that Dave is a little stiff to be taking up a modelling career. David was due to leave us tomorrow so we set off towards the end of the cave, as far as the lake that leads to The Great Wall of Vietnam, taking pictures on the way before heading back to Camp One. There are some stunning cave pearls in this section of the cave as well as some massive stalactite formations. As we passed Camp Two the sun came out and we were treated to more sumbeams before heading to Camp One via an oxbow that cuts out most of the climb up to Doline One. Another fine meal and by eight pm we were ready for bed.

Camp Two from Doline Two

Mi Tom (noodles with egg) for breakfast before heading out to the entrance to say goodbye to David and to meet the Swedish team from National Geographic who were there to take 360 degree photographs of the cave, a process that was incredibly slow to set up and also included sound recordings where everybody had to be absolutely silent for about fifteen minutes. Fortunately they were able to move quickly when not filming so we made it back to Camp One in time for another fine meal and by eight pm we were ready for bed.

Cave "Potatoes" beyond Camp Two

Pancakes for breakfast and repeat the whole process as we proceeded to the lake at the end of the cave and back to Camp Two for more food and by eight pm we were ready for bed.

Phytokarst in Doline One

After noodles for breakfast we went down to the lake for boat building (with lorry inner tubes) while the Swedes did a bit more photography before making their way back to the entrance and then on to Hang En for the final camp. We caught them up just as they finished climbing out of the entrance but they were long gone when we reached the top at about five thirty. We set off just as it got dark and reached Hang En at about seven, by eight pm we were ready for bed but the evening meal wasn't quite ready so we had to eat that first!

Hang En Sunbeams

The next day was a speedy walk back to the road, the Swedes were quick walkers and we only just kept up on the flat, but when we got to the final hill, their lack of fitness showed and we left them and the guide (but not the porters who are long gone) behind.

A hot shower awaited, but sadly not to be as there was a power cut! Cold showers all round!

Tomorrow we go to Ru Ca Roong for two days.